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From Moritz Schloms
He takes the matter seriously, that much is quickly clear. First Daniel Wolf cuts the loaf, then he smells the bread. The 30-year-old then picks a piece out of the middle, as you would never do at the family kitchen table. But that's the way it has to be, because otherwise the taste of the crust is too dominant, he says.
The bread tester has a clear catalog that he checks. The shape and appearance of the rolls are important, the crust is checked, the texture of the bread is tested, then it's all about the smell and taste. Of course, there are rules for this: "I'm not allowed to test more than 50 baked goods, otherwise I won't be able to tell the differences," he says.
The results are then entered neatly into a document on the computer in front of him. The certificate is then issued directly using the printer he has brought with him. He will give the bakers a grade and feedback. If the bread is too salty or the base is burnt, points will of course be deducted. And a suggestion for improvement.
Bread tester Daniel Wolf loves his job and good bread, and you can quickly tell. The 30-year-old will be in Görlitz in Neißepark for two days. He will be testing 62 baked goods from 14 Görlitz bakers - that's his job. There are only four testers in Germany, and the 30-year-old is by far the youngest.
The bread and bread roll test is organized by the Upper Lusatia-Lower Silesia Bakers' Guild. Bakers who want to be tested pay ten euros per tested baked good. In return, the bakers receive a certificate that they can display in their bakeries. If they achieve a very good rating three times in a row, they receive a gold certificate.
What problems the Görlitz bakers have
Michael Tschirch has received several such certificates. The 60-year-old has five stores in Görlitz and the surrounding area. He also has his goods tested by Daniel Wolf. But he has never put up all the certificates: "We didn't have the time or people for that," says the master baker. Staffing is a problem that Görlitz bakers are struggling with anyway. Michael Tschirch even closed one of his bakeries in Kodersdorf because of this.
Gottfried Paul, the head of the Görlitz bakers' guild, is of course also aware of the problem. "The number of Sunday bakeries is decreasing because they can't find employees who want to work on Sundays or public holidays," he says. Many bakers also report that it is not always easy with trainees. The working hours in particular - baking at night or early in the morning - sometimes make the job unattractive for the next generation.
© Paul Glaser/glaserfotografie.de
The bread inspector, who travels to bakeries across Germany, also sees this: "Changes are taking place, the large bakery chains are getting bigger, the smaller ones are getting smaller or closing down completely." The new generation of bakers are specializing, offering fewer types of bread or no longer offering cakes as well. "The baker can concentrate better on the individual products and working hours are changing."
New offers are being created, and in some cases customers in bakeries are willing to pay eight euros for a small loaf of bread. With new working hours and more specialization, the profession is also becoming more interesting again for younger people.
However, the head of the Görlitz guild also has another view on this. "In the village, the bakery is often the last store, if it still exists. We are the supplier for everything there."
Prices are also an issue. Personnel costs in particular, due to the higher minimum wage, and of course energy costs, are making bread rolls more expensive. This is certainly another reason why many people prefer to buy toast from discounters rather than fresh bread from bakers.
© Paul Glaser/glaserfotografie.de
What does the bread tester say about the Görlitz rolls?
But that's also why the baked goods are tested in front of interested Neißepark visitors. "Why should we do this in a quiet room when we can show our variety and quality here," says the new head of the Görlitz district craftsmen's association.
The center manager of the Neißepark is also delighted. He is a hobby baker himself. "I've been baking my own bread and rolls at home since coronavirus, which relaxes me," says Holger Wandrey. During the last bread test, the examiner gave him a tip on how to bake without yeast. His favorite bread: "White bread, even if it's unhealthy." The public bread test is intended to provide a platform for local bakers.
After the first day, Daniel Wolf sums up the Görlitz baked goods. Most of the breads and rolls received top marks and the tester was satisfied with the Görlitz bakers. He deducted points from some of them because he found the dough lacked water or the crust was not convincing.
The public bread test will take place on June 18 and 19 in the Neißepark in Görlitz. Always from 10 am to 3 pm. Tasting is welcome.
